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Beurre and Sel Jammers

Beurre and Sel Jammers

Ingredients

Cookie Dough

  • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1/4 cup powdered sugar, sifted
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 2 large egg yolks, room temperature
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Streusel and Assembly

  • 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 5 1/2 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • 1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 3/4 cup thick jam, such as lingonberry, apricot, orange marmalade, and blackberry

Special equipment

  • A 2-inch cookie cutter; 3 standard 12-cup muffin tins

Recipe Preparation

Cookie Dough

  • Using an electric mixer at medium speed, beat butter in a large bowl until smooth and creamy, about 3 minutes. Add both sugars and salt; beat until well blended, about 1 minute. Reduce speed to low; beat in egg yolks and vanilla. Add flour and mix just to combine. Dough will be soft and slightly sticky.

  • Divide dough in half. Place each half between sheets of parchment or waxed paper. Flatten dough into disks. Working with 1 disk at a time, roll out dough, occasionally lifting paper on both sides for easy rolling, until 1/4 inches thick. Freeze dough in paper until firm, at least 2 hours. DO AHEAD: Dough can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and keep frozen.

Streusel

  • Mix flour, sugar, and salt in a small mixing bowl. Using your fingertips, rub butter and vanilla into dry ingredients until no large lumps remain and butter is well incorporated. Streusel will be sandy and hold its shape when pressed between your fingers. Cover and chill. DO AHEAD: Streusel can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.

Assembly

  • Arrange a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°.

  • Using cookie cutter, cut out rounds of frozen dough from freezer. Place rounds in bottom of muffin cups and gently pat to flatten. Continue cutting frozen dough into rounds; gather scraps and repeat process of rolling out and cutting to make 34 rounds. Cover muffin tins with foil and chill in freezer until dough is firm, about 30 minutes or up to 2 days.

  • Spoon about 1 teaspoon jam into the center of each round of dough. Using your fingers or a small spoon, sprinkle 1-1 1/2 tablespoons streusel around edges of each cookie, trying not to get any in the jam.

  • Bake cookies, in batches if needed, until sides and streusel are golden, 20-22 minutes. Let cool in tins for 15 minutes. Run a small knife around edges of muffin cups; gently remove cookies and let cool completely on a wire rack. DO AHEAD: Cookies can be baked 2 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature .

Recipe by Dorie Greenspan,

Nutritional Content

34 cookies, 2 cookies per serving, 1 serving contains:Calories (kcal) 250Fat (g) 14Saturated Fat (g) 9Cholesterol (mg) 60Carbohydrates (g) 29Dietary Fiber (g) 0Total Sugars (g) 14Protein (g) 2Sodium (mg) 90Reviews SectionHow can nutritional info list "sugars" as 0 when there's more than a cup of sugar in the recipe? Am I missing something?I've been making this recipe for years! It is one of my favorites. They're beautiful and so delicious. You can use any kind of jam and they turn out perfectly every time.AnonymousLos Angeles, CA12/22/17

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Over Memorial Day weekend I had a huge bagful of cherries, the assignment to make dessert for a friend’s barbecue, and no clear idea of what to do. Mom was visiting and we’d already made her signature chocolate cupcakes, but we wanted to do something with the cherries. She found a cherry olive oil polenta cake recipe online that we chose over other cherry-oriented recipes because we had all the ingredients for it in the house and it seemed like a cinch to make—no waiting for butter to soften, no melting ingredients and dirtying a pot!

It was delicious! A bit more like a breakfast/coffee cake than a true dessert cake, but moist and tender and with a nice crumb. We brainstormed what other fruits would be good, given how fleeting the cherry season is. A week or so later, I tried it with a pint of blueberries (but didn’t take a picture). Tasty, very breakfasty, but needed more blueberries (and for my timer to work that one got a bit overcooked). Jason said that what he liked about the cherries was that the sweetness isn’t so one-dimensional there’s a bit of a tang. So when Fresh Direct had a sale on pluots (plum-apricot hybrids), I grabbed some and figured I’d give them a shot.

The pluots are moister, and definitely tarter, but I cooked the cake exactly the right amount of time and the result is sublime. I also added a generous sprinkling of raw sugar to the top, which was the right choice.

I’ll try it with straight up apricots, maybe mango, and someday if I can spare pieces for baking instead of eating them immediately, pineapple. At first I wasn’t sure how versatile this recipe would be, and now I am eager to stick all the fruits in there! Try it with whatever you have on hand, and let me know how it comes out!

(Cherry) Olive Oil Polenta Cake
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup extra-virgin extra-virgin olive oil
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
3 cups all-purpose flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup polenta or cornmeal
2 1/2 cups fresh fruit (1 lb cherries, pitted / 1.5-2 pints blueberries / 4 pluots, peeled and diced into 1-inch pieces)
Sugar in the raw, for sprinkling

Preheat oven to 350°F. Spray a 10″ round cake pan with nonstick vegetable spray. I found that cutting a round of parchment and placing that in the pan, then lightly spraying it, was a big help in getting the cake out of the pan cleanly.

In the bowl of a mixer with a paddle attachment, beat the eggs and sugar on medium-high until light in color, about 4 minutes. Add vanilla, olive oil, lemon zest, and lemon juice and stir to combine.

In a separate bowl, sift together flour, baking soda, salt, and polenta. Add to egg mixture and mix until combined.

Spread two-thirds of batter into the prepared pan. If you put a round of parchment in, it’ll slide all over the place, but soldier on and you can get the batter spread and the parchment centered. Cover completely with the fruit, pressing in lightly. Spoon and spread the remaining batter over the fruit as best you can. Sprinkle generously with sugar in the raw to make a sweet crust. Bake until top and edges are golden brown and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, 1 hour. Remove from oven and cool in pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cake from pan and cool completely on rack. Enjoy!

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Best Christmas Cookie Ever! Dorie Greenspan’s Beurre et Sel Jammers and a review of "Dorie’s Cookies"

Not too long ago, I suggested that if you made only one baked good this season, it should be the over-the-top delicious Apple Pie Bar found at http://chewingthefat.us.com/2016/12/if-you-bake-nothing-else-this-season.html. “Not so fast,” the Baker in our house protested. “If ever there was a cookie to be baked this season, Dorie Greenspan’s Beurre et Sel Jammers should be the one.” I am not one to argue. I’d given Andrew Ms. Greenspan’s latest cookbook “Dorie’s Cookies” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2016) for his birthday. But he’d already made her remarkable Beurre et Sel Jammers which we published in our story about this year’s Hampton Classic Horse Show. We both decided that this was well worth repeating and also a great opportunity to tell you about Dorie’s latest book.

Dorie Greenspan is a big player in our kitchen. Aside from her baking books which now number 10 and counting, her “Around My French Table” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2010) is an indispensable resource for me. Now “Dorie’s Cookies” will undoubtedly join the short list of cookbooks we can’t live without. It’s a definitive guide from a baker whose professed love for cookies is obvious from page 1. There’s a 22 page section of “techniques, ingredients and gear”. And then there are the over 300 recipes for every imaginable kind of cookie. From bars to cocktail cookies, there are page after page of beautifully photographed cookies. There are sweet cookies and savories. There are even over 40 pages of “Cookie Go Alongs and Basics”. These recipes run from Vanilla Marshmallows to Use it for Everything Struesel. This is the most comprehensive Cookie Guide we’ve ever seen. Its thoroughness is no surprise. Ms. Greenspan is not given to scrimping on words or instructions. To read one of her recipes is to imagine her next to you in the kitchen egging you on in minute detail. Our Beurre et Sel Jammers are no exception. They are also part of a collection of 16 variations running 52 pages in length in “Dorie’s Cookies”.

Any cookie this good requires a little effort but the result is so worthwhile, I bet you will bake these time and time again. There’s a cookie dough to make and a streusel to top it with. It also requires muffin tins and a two inch cookie cutter. But the good news is the dough and streusel can be made in advance and nowhere does Ms. Greenspan suggest making your own jam. Jammers also keep very well—for at least a couple of days. Here is the recipe.


Holiday Treats: Beurre and Sel Jammers

Altina heard the bells and ran for the stairs. “I told you,” she whispered to Martine, her nanny, who held her back just as they reached the railing. “I told you they’d come.”

And come, they had. They had outdone themselves, in fact. Every inch of the house, it seemed, was covered in holly and bows. The air, which usually smelled like musty leather, thanks to her grandfather’s extensive collection of antique volumes, now bloomed with the scent of forest pine. Altina’s eyes widened as she took in the juniper in the foyer, wrapped in silk ribbons and its leaves aglow from the candles balanced there. And underneath it, presents. Presents of all sizes and shapes and wrapped in glossy red and silver paper, she’d never seen such paper, and she knew without taking a step that they were all for her.







Martine reached up with wonder and touched the nose of a St. Nicholas figurine that had appeared in the corner nook overnight. Martine had only been with them for five months and had never seen their Christmas. She looked around, almost frightened. “Your parents do all of this.”

Altina nodded, so swollen with pride that she practically bounced. “They come in while I’m sleeping,” she said quietly, so as not to wake her grandfather. “And they decorate the whole house. And they put up the tree and place my presents. And oh! Come!” She pulled Martine down the stairs, so quickly that the poor girl almost tripped out of her slippers, and she pulled her toward the kitchen.

“Look,” she breathed out and Martine gasped. The counters, which had been clean and scrubbed and bare when Altina had drunk her warm milk the night before, were covered wall to edge with platters of cookies and warm breads and rolls, bowls of oranges and cranberries, tarts and pies. The air smelled like heaven. “They do this too,” she whispered. “They travel the world, you see, and know all of the best things to eat and they bring them home here, to me. And then they’re gone. I’d like to see them, just once,” Altina said. “But Grandfather says that this is their gift to me and it’s their magic to give me so I can’t see them, even if I wanted to see them more than presents or trees or bows.”

Martine had been staring hard at the cakes and pies. Now she looked at Altina. “Oh?”

“No. But it’s all right,” Altina said and she patted Martine’s hand, because she gazed at her with such quiet eyes. Altina leaned over the counter and picked up the prettiest cookie, pale with an amber center. She breathed it in, the smell of Christmas, the smell of magic and love.







I so very badly wanted to make these cookies. Aren’t they pretty? They taste just as good as they look too.

When I was a girl, my mother would stop in the bakery before a holiday or a family party (or sometimes, just because) and she’d let me pick out a cookie. And I always, always went for Linzer Tarts (because they were the biggest and filled with raspberry jam and powdered sugar and also they were the biggest, did I mention how big they were?) When I saw these, I knew I had to have them, all crinkly and pretty and touched with jam. I picked a plum jam for mine and the tartness of the jam cut right through the sweetness. During the holidays, you’ve gotta have cookies with a little sparkle to them, don’t you think?







The SKS Cookie Collection

Beurre and Sel Jammers

Make ahead alert! Dough will need at least 2.5 hours of resting time

You will need: a 2″ cookie cutter, standard cupcake or muffin tin

Ingredients

1 Cup (2 sticks) of unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 Cup of sugar
1/4 Cup of powdered sugar, sifted
1/2 Teaspoons of fine sea salt
2 Large egg yolks, room temperature
2 Teaspoons of vanilla extract
2 Cups of all-purpose flour

3/4 Cup of all-purpose flour
1/3 Cup of sugar
1/4 Teaspoon of fine sea salt
5 and 1/2 Tablespoons of chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1/4 Teaspoon of vanilla extract
3/4 Cup of thick jam (lingonberry, apricot, plum)

1. In a large bowl, beat butter with electric mixer at medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 3 minutes.

2. Add both sugars and salt to butter beat until well blended, about 1 full minute.

3. Reduce speed to low and beat in egg yolks and vanilla.

4. Add flour and mix JUST to combine. Dough will be soft and slightly sticky.

5. Divide dough in half and place each half between sheets of parchment or waxed paper.

6. Roll dough into disk until 1/4″ thick. Freeze dough until firm, at least 2 hours. (Dough can be made 2 days ahead, just cover and keep frozen.)

7. In a small mixing bowl, mix flour, sugar and salt.

8. Using your fingertips, rub butter and vanilla into dry ingredients until no large lumps remain and butter is well incorporated. Streusel will be sandy and hold its shape when pressed between your fingers. Cover and chill. (Streusel can be made 2 days ahead. Keep chilled.)

9. Arrange rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°F.

10. Using a cookie cutter, cut out rounds of frozen dough from freezer and place rounds in bottom of muffin cups and gently pat to flatten.

11. Once muffin tin is full, cover with foil and chill until dough is firm, about 30 minutes (up to 2 days).

12. When ready to bake, spoon 1 teaspoon of jam into center of each dough round.

13. Sprinkle streusel around jam, carefully.

14. Bake cookies, in batches, until sides and streusel are golden, about 20 to 22 minutes.

15. Let cool in this for 15 minutes. Run a small knife around edges of muffin cups and let cool completely on a wire rack.


Beurre and Sel Jammers - Recipes

You should know about those cookies that were worthy of making their own jam for. Which isn’t to say you need to follow suit – there’s no requirement to make jam from scratch in order to make these cookies, only that you have the best possible jam to put on these buttery pedestals.

They come from Dorie Greenspan, whom I met a few years ago in Austin after a brief introduction in the lounge on Friday night (I was there for IACP for the weekend) she spotted me a few yards away at a party the following evening, and came through the crowd to ask how my day was. Yes she did. And then Jacques Pepin came over to talk to her, and said hi to me in doing so, and then suddenly the three of us were standing there chatting – or more likely, I was standing there open mouthed and speechless with Dorie Greenspan and Jacques Pepin. It was brief, but it happened.

These cookies are made with (impeccable) shortbread dough, topped with a generous spoonful of jam (note to self: try mincemeat at Christmas) and a crumble of butter, sugar and flour, which you sort of sprinkle around in the oven they meld together, so there’s no risk of tipping cookie crumbs down your shirt with each bite.

Dorie knows her stuff, no question. But I did take some shortcuts, it being summer and all the original recipe instructed to roll out the dough and freeze it, then cut it into rounds with a cookie cutter or glass rim and fit into the bottom of muffin tins. I did this with half, and with the other half pressed a walnut-sized lump of dough into the bottoms, and once baked, no one could tell the difference.

I used the blackberry-apricot jam, mostly, and did a few with chokecherry. I meant to make some peach-ginger jam just for this cause, but went to the beach instead. Next time. I added some chopped pecans to a few, just to see. It worked. Sliced almonds would do well too.

These are substantial cookies, and I get an odd satisfaction out of the fact that they’re perfectly, evenly round, and structurally able to contain so much jam. And it turns out they’re perfect for stacking, wrapping and taking to the beach to eat while sitting on a rock.


The Christmas Baking Trick That Makes Any Cookie Fancy

If you bake me homemade Christmas cookies, I'm always going to think you are a wonderful person. Full stop. But let's face it, sometimes we don't want our cookies to look all wobbly-edged and wonky. Come Christmastime, if we want them to compete with those overpriced store-bought options, we want them to look, well, perfect.

Expert baker Dorie Greenspan, author of a slew of beloved cookbooks, including the new Dorie's Cookies, understands. When she opened her now-dearly departed bakery Beurre & Sel, she couldn't get the cookies to all be the same size, which meant they wouldn't fit her packaging. Disaster—until she hit on a solution. Baking the cookie dough in small metal ring molds gave them super-straight sides and a very tailored look. "It all happened because of panic," Greenspan says.

Not only did these straight-sided Christmas cookies fit perfectly into gift bags and tubes, they actually tasted better, too. "Left to their own devices, cookies will spread, but here they had to grow in their tiny little homes, and became crisper around the edges, which I loved," she says.

But Dorie's fans wanted to be able to make these snazzy, stackable cookies at home—without having to source those fancy metal ring molds. Fortunately, a friend of Dorie's discovered how to pull it off, suggesting that folks bake those rounds of dough in the bottom of muffin tins instead. "And once I started baking them in muffin tins, I couldn’t stop," Greenspan says. "Like ginger molasses cookies. They're delicious baked in balls, but they were crying out for the muffin-tin treatment. It’s a really interesting way to change the texture."

Soon, Dorie was creating brand-new cookies that take full advantage of the muffin-tin treatment, like these gorgeous Beurre & Sel Jammers. But classic cookie doughs, like peanut butter cookie, can also be baked this way.

The technique couldn't be simpler—just scoop cookie dough with a standard two-tablespoon cookie scoop, or use a spoon. "Most cookies have enough butter so you don’t have to butter the muffin pan," Greenspan says. "Then use a little jar with plastic wrap to press down the surface." (If you really want to ensure perfectly even cookies, you can roll out the dough, cut it into circles with a ring mold, and then transfer the dough circles to a muffin tin, but it’s not necessary.) The heat of the oven will do the rest. Bake your cookies as directed in the recipe, checking them a couple of minutes earlier than usual.

Another fun option? "Using a mini muffin tin has huge potential," says Dorie. Just use a smaller scoop of dough. And then relax while it bakes. After all, as Dorie points out, "They’re no work. It’s like the cookie equivalent of a Bundt cake: it looks gorgeous and the pan did all the work." But you get to collect the compliments.


The 10 Dishes That Made My Career: Dorie Greenspan

In the age of Cronuts and cotton-candy cake shakes, it's a relief to know there's still someone out there championing the thoroughbreds of the dessert world. For decades, home cooks and professionals alike have turned to one pint-sized authority, Dorie Greenspan, for wisdom related to cookies, cakes, crumbles, tarts, and more, all of which are hard-wired into the sweets-inspired narrative of her life. An anecdote about a candied walnuts research trip in Paris, for example, quickly turns into a memory about tasting the world’s most perfect canelé, which in turn morphs into the origin story of her famed chocolate sable, “World Peace Cookies.” This is just how talking to Dorie goes—the Brooklyn native has a mind for detail and a reputation over the past 40 years as a living, breathing Encyclopedia Britannica for all things baking.

Through her rich career as a food writer, cookbook author, and occasional cookie peddler, Greenspan has evolved into a sort of spiritual advisor to those looking for guidance in the baked-goods department. She's earned that through unimpeachable recipes, of course, but that's only part of the equation. In a climate where Food Network stars continue to breed a cult of personality, and of-the-moment chefs draw hordes of fans waiting to send off a 'gram, Greenspan's loveable, home-grown sensibility commands respect for embodying the exact combination of qualities you'd want from a teacher.

Greenspan's skills, however, were not honed in the austere halls of culinary school, which perhaps explains her charm—or in some cases, even sheepishness, when she meets idols like Julia Child. For someone who today is considered nothing short of a baking guru, Greenspan is entirely self-taught, poring through cookbooks and apprenticing under some of the world’s finest pastry chefs. During her early twenties, while working toward a graduate degree in gerontology (yes, that would be the study of aging), the Brooklyn native started making cakes and cookies for a restaurant (which she was quickly fired from—“the best thing that ever happened to me,” she says), and eventually turned her attention to baking full-time. In this sense, Greenspan is one of the last vestiges of an era of cookbook writers who actually put hard time in in the kitchen as opposed to brainstorming endless 30-second kitchen hacks with SEO potential.

Greenspan’s 12 cookbooks have earned their dog-ears for many a home cook, and the same audience will soon have another one to wear in come October when she releases “Dorie’s Cookies." For dedicated fans, this is big news—cookies have become something of a calling card for Greenspan, whose now-defunct cookie pop-up with her son, Beurre and Sel, caused a minor sensation when it launched in 2012. Her new book includes recipes for fan favorites like the Jammers (more on them below), entire chapters on new inventions like cocktail cookies (cookies meant to be eaten with wine or cocktails), and all of the recipes from Beurre and Sel.

Here we tripped down memory lane with Greenspan from her home in Connecticut, covering her ten most formative dishes in near-perfect chronological order, starting with her teenage years through her first kitchen jobs, to Paris and Laos and beyond, with cameos from some of the most important food figures of the past half-century. Through it all, Greenspan displayed the sense of humor, humility, and wonderment at the world that has made her such a treasured and trusted figure in the food world today.


Wednesday, 12 February 2014

Swedish Visiting Cake

I've made the original, an almost original, an orange and a lemon version. I've used all plain flour, swapped out the flour for ground almonds, used half-and-half of flour and ground almonds and even used just the ground almonds. I've also fidgeted with the egg measurements and oven temperatures. It still turns out lovely every time.

A handful of Sliced Almonds

Preheat oven at 130 Celsius. Grease and line a 24-cm round baking tin. Set aside.

Place the Sugar into a large bowl. Grate the lemon zest onto the sugar. Rub the Sugar and Zest together with your fingers until the aroma of lemons fills the air. Whisk in the Egg and Egg Yolk one at a time until well incorporated.

Add in the Salt and Vanilla. Mix well. Gently fold in the Flour and Ground Almonds with a spatula. Finally, fold in the melted Butter. Scrape the batter into the prepared tin and smooth the top. Sprinkle on the Almond Slices and place in the oven.

Bake at 150 Celsius for about 25 to 30 minutes until the cake is golden and crisp on top or if a skewer poked through the centre comes out clean.

Remove from the oven and cool in the tin for 10 minutes before turning out onto a pretty serving plate.


The Best Cookie Ever for the Classic: Andrew bakes Dorie Greenspan’s Beurre et Sel Jammers for the Hampton Classic

shone brilliantly and the wind was more a welcome breeze, apparently a lot of people “didn’t get the memo”. A large segment of our summer population left town imagining that if they waited any longer, they’d have a hard slog in the storm. So Classic standbys like the inimitable Joy Marks, famous for changing outfits mid-show, were nowhere to be found. Matt Lauer was delivering his son to Boarding School. Mayor Giuliani, who is persona-non-grata out here this season, wisely stayed away. In fact the only truly bold-faced name we saw was Brooke Shields. They really missed a lot.

The Jump Off, where 5 horses competed for the Grand Prize was the most exciting in years as rider after rider bested each other’s times. The Grand Prix luncheon table designers outdid themselves again this year. And best of all, the table of our hosts, Hamptons Cottages and Gardens judged the table of our hosts, Michael and Jim of The Bridgehampton Florist, Second Prize Winner of Best Table arrangement. (All anyone could ask was who was First if this magnificent table was second.) And the other thing the no-shows missed wasc Andrew’s incredible discovery: Dorie Greenspan’s Beurre et Sel Jammers, a jam-filled shortbread cookie so buttery and luscious that it makes my list of Best Cookie ever at The Classic.

Dorie Greenspan is one of our favorite cookbook authors. Her “Around My French Table” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2010) is one of those cookbooks where I look first for inspiration. But Ms Greenspan’s fame is most often ascribed to her remarkable career in baking. She’s a James Beard Award winner for “Baking: From My Home to Yours” and “Baking with Julia”. For an all-too-brief a time, she and her son, Joshua, described as a “Cookie Monster” owned a stall in The Essex Market, a lower East Side food destination at 120 Essex Street. After a 15 month run in 2012 and 2013, the stall closed. It was likely a victim of the high cost of her merchandise combined with a clientele that is still looking for bargains on the lower East Side. Andrew and I made a pilgrimage there when it opened. We were delighted with its array of cookies. Her fan favorites were all there from Classic Vanilla Sables to Chocolate Chunkers. And then there were the unexpected delights of Coconut Lime and Savory Rosemary Parmesan Sables. And there were Jammers. So when Andrew came across the recipe for them in a Bon Appetit magazine, he couldn’t wait to bake them.