New recipes

Do the Best French Fries in the World Come from Belgium?

Do the Best French Fries in the World Come from Belgium?

A small order of fries in Brussels could pass for a large in another city

Move over, waffles. French fries are the true show stoppers.

There has long been a debate on the origin of French fries - where they come from is constantly contested between Belgium and France. Regardless of where they came from, though, the fact is that Belgium may very well have the best french fries in the world. That’s right. Move over, waffles; french fries are the serious show stoppers.

Take Brussels, for example, Belgium’s most well-known city. You’ll see and smell the Bruxellois passion for french fries as soon as you leave your accommodation: A fritkot, a street stand that serves fries, is never far away. Frit’Flagey, in Ixelles, is a brief walk outside of the city center and is a favorite with locals. Use your best French to order a small cone of frites with some mayonnaise on top (a must in Belgium). As you pierce the fries with a small fork, marvel at how twice-frying the potatoes produces a fluffy inside and crispy outside.

Sound like the best french fries in the world? Yeah, we thought so, too.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.


Can Belgium claim ownership of the French fry?

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, we’ll likely never know the dish’s true origins.

Whether it&rsquos English fish and chips or poutine in Québec, Parisian steak-frites or Belgian frieten with mayonnaise &ndash or even a &lsquosupersized&rsquo fry order in the US &ndash many places have laid claim to the simple fried potato.

Despite the common name of this dish (and the fact that France has given the world many famous foods, from the baguette to the soufflé), the French fry is unequivocally Belgian, at least according to Albert Verdeyen, chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, which charts the history of the fry.

&ldquoAmericans call it a French fry,&rdquo he said, &ldquobut it&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry.&rdquo

It&rsquos not a French fry, it&rsquos a Francophone fry

Common lore claims that the original fry was born in Namur in francophone Belgium, where the locals were particularly fond of fried fish. When the River Meuse froze over one cold winter in 1680, people ostensibly fried potatoes instead of the small fish they were accustomed to, and the fry was born.

Proponents of this story claim that this Belgian town is not only the source of the French fry, but indeed, of its name: American soldiers, stationed in the francophone region during World War I, allegedly dubbed the potatoes &lsquoFrench fries&rsquo, and the common (if slightly imprecise) moniker was born.

Although Belgium is currently petitioning Unesco to endorse the fry as an official icon of Belgian cultural heritage, some claim that this legend doesn&rsquot quite hold water.

Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, professor of the University of Liège, noted in an article on the history of fries that the story is &ldquonot plausible&rdquo.

First and foremost, Leclercq explained, even if the Namur-based legend is true, it&rsquos far more likely that it took place, not in 1680, but in 1739: after all, he wrote, potatoes were not introduced into the region until 1735. But even once the Namurois had spuds at their disposal, Leclercq said, it&rsquos unlikely that they deep-fried them.

&ldquoIn the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,&rdquo he explained. &ldquoButter was expensive, animal fat was rare, and cheaper vegetable fats were consumed with parsimony. That&rsquos why peasants ate fat straight, without wasting it, on bread or in a soup.&rdquo

He noted that for this reason, the notion that the poor would waste fat by using it for deep-frying seems suspect, challenging the credence of this traditional tale &ndash regardless of when it ostensibly took place.

Leclercq is not the only one to believe in a different origin story for the French fry. Some people, particularly the French, take the name of the dish a bit more literally. These proponents of a truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry claim that the delicacy&rsquos first form was the pomme Pont-Neuf, a deep-fried potato sold by pushcart vendors on Paris&rsquo oldest bridge, the eponymous Pont Neuf, in the late 18th Century.

Potatoes had been deemed suspect by the French ever since their arrival from the New World, despite 18th-Century efforts by agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier to democratise the vegetable after he encountered it as a Prussian prisoner. Parmentier went so far as to hire soldiers to stand guard around his potato patch to increase the allure of the humble spud, even allowing civilians to &lsquosteal&rsquo potatoes in the dead of night, thus furthering their reputed desirability. By 1795, the potato had attained popularity across the country, so it&rsquos no stretch of the imagination to consider that the first French fry would be invented and sold in France &ndash why not by these bridge-bound peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th Century?

&ldquoThe inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,&rdquo said Leclercq in his article. &ldquoBut we can guess his job: peddler. We can also guess his origin: Parisian.&rdquo

But despite this vote of confidence for the &lsquoFrench&rsquo fry, we may never truly get to the bottom of who actually invented the food.

For one, it&rsquos hard to know whether written references to fried potatoes refer to deep-fried lengths of potato, or rather to rounds sautéed in a pan with butter. The French fry first appears in writing &ndash in its current form and with the time-honoured technique of double-frying to achieve the perfect crust and tender interior &ndash in the early 20th Century in a Belgian guide called the Traité d&rsquoéconomie domestique et d&rsquohygiène (Treatise on Domestic Economy and Hygiene). But for Leclercq, even this isn&rsquot enough to categorically prove the fry&rsquos Belgian-ness.

The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous

&ldquoPrudence obliges us to not jump to conclusions based on only one text,&rdquo he wrote, alluding, too, to a tradition of double-frying in France, as with pommes soufflées, a round of potato that naturally puffs up with air when double-fried.

&ldquoThe fry is a daughter of street cooking,&rdquo culinary historian Madeleine Ferrière told Le Monde. &ldquoThat&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate.&rdquo

But perhaps it&rsquos not its birth certificate that matters when deciding who truly lays claim to the French fry, but rather, who has created the most emblematic version of the dish.

For some, the French fry, no matter its Francophone origins, has become undeniably American, with the average American consuming about 29 pounds of them a year. The US even went so far as to divide fries from their European origin entirely, with the early 2000s&rsquo shamelessly patriotic &lsquoFreedom fries&rsquo in the wake of France&rsquos refusal to support the US&rsquos invasion of Iraq.

The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That&rsquos why it&rsquos so hard to establish its birth certificate

Canada, meanwhile, home to McCain Foods, the world&rsquos largest manufacturer of frozen French fries (and other frozen potato specialties), has truly made fries a national dish thanks to poutine. The combination of fries, cheese curds and gravy first appeared in rural Québec in the 1950s, though its exact birthplace is nearly as much a source of contention as that of the French fry itself, with claims from both the towns of Warwick and Drummondville.

&ldquoThere are two or three versions, but I don&rsquot think we&rsquoll ever know [which was the original],&rdquo said Charles-Alexandre Théorêt, author of Maudite Poutine. &ldquoAnd maybe it&rsquos better that way.&rdquo

Today, the former working-class dish has become a culinary star for all Québeckers, with Montreal&rsquos La Banquise restaurant offering no fewer than 30 combinations of fries, cheese and sauce, and Chef Martin Picard of Au Pied de Cochon even introducing a foie gras poutine to his menu in 2002. This, noted Théorêt, launched a &ldquobourgeoisation&rdquo of the dish, with versions that occasionally depart quite far from the original, subbing curry sauce for gravy or vegan cheese for cheese curds.

But while of the three main ingredients, the hardest to replace entirely is the fries, Théorêt doesn&rsquot think they&rsquore necessarily more important than either of the other elements.

&ldquoThey&rsquore the base,&rdquo he said. &ldquoThey&rsquore indispensable, but they&rsquore not the most important.&rdquo

The British staple of fish and chips is yet another contender for the most emblematic fried-potato dish. While chips are slightly different from fries, particularly with regards to their shape, the similarities between the two are incontestable.

In 1928, The New York Times declared fish and chips &lsquoEngland&rsquos hot dog&rsquo, and while the chip portion could certainly be seen as more of a side than the main event, it&rsquos perhaps no accident that purveyors of the dish are known as &lsquochippies&rsquo rather than &lsquofishies&rsquo.

As with poutine, modern adaptations of fish and chips at even the most high-end dining establishments have helped the former working-class food to become &lsquoclassless&rsquo, according to the Telegraph, &ldquowhich somewhat increases its credibility as our national dish.&rdquo

In France, the fry&rsquos upward movement happened much earlier, with suggestions for pairing the fried potatoes with grilled meat, à la French classic steak-frites, appearing as early as the 18th Century. France also spawned a version that still bears the name of the ostensible original &ndash the pomme Pont-Neuf. Cut into a perfect rectangle, the pomme Pont-Neuf may boast a more striking aesthetic, but it also creates more waste and is thus more aligned with haute cuisine than with everyday food.

At Parisian establishment Pont-Neuf &ndash La Frite Française, however, this eponymous cut is not used. Rather, these fries are somewhere between a shoestring and a wider chip and, according to co-founder Jean-Paul Lubot, are truly &lsquoFrench&rsquo fries.

The Frenchness of these frites comes, first and foremost, from their origins: French ingredients, including local potatoes delivered straight to the restaurant, the variety of which changes according to the season.

&ldquoIn Paris, it&rsquos hard to eat good fries,&rdquo said Lubot, noting that his vision for Pont-Neuf was not a chip shop, but &lsquoa chip boutique&rsquo that would combat the fried-from-frozen fries that too often plague the capital.

&ldquoOur approach,&rdquo he explained, &ldquois to make a high-end fry.&rdquo

&lsquoSides&rsquo here include local Paris ham, shrimp croquettes or meats from Boucherie Metzger, one of Paris&rsquo top butchers. The potatoes, meanwhile, are hand-peeled and cut fresh daily before being double-fried in beef tallow: first in the morning, and then once more, just before serving.

&ldquoAs far as we&rsquore concerned, it&rsquos possible to make a French fry as good as the Belgian fry,&rdquo Lubot said.

The Belgian fry, then, remains the reference of quality, the one to beat, even for these very French fry makers. This is, perhaps, no surprise.

After all, in a world where fries are often relegated to a mere side dish for burgers, steak or fish, or a base for gravy and cheese, it&rsquos only in Belgium that fries truly are a meal unto themselves: traditionally made from the Dutch Bintje potato, these fries are always double-fried in beef tallow (never oil), piled into a paper cone with a touch of mayonnaise, and purchased from frietkot, or simple mobile fry stalls.

A recent endeavour to revitalise these staples of the Belgian capital spawned a plan to revamp about eight frietkot to the tune of 50,000 euro each. Some found this idea hard to swallow even Thomas Hick, the architect behind the new frietkots, told The Guardian that the change was &ldquocontentious&rdquo.

The Belgian fry remains the reference of quality, the one to beat

&ldquoThe frietkots are old and ramshackle and it&rsquos something we like about Brussels,&rdquo he said. &ldquoNo fuss. As opposed to the French way &ndash the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.&rdquo

&ldquoI think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own,&rdquo Verdeyen said.

Maybe this is what makes all the difference.

Food Wars is a series from BBC Travel that invites you to feel the heat when passions flare around beloved dishes that shape a culture&rsquos identity.

Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram.